About the country
Baja California is the westernmost state of Mexico, bordered by the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean. It’s a land of grand, wild desert landscapes, a paradise for humpback whales, rays, pelicans, vultures and cacti. There’s as much to see on land as at sea. We first discovered this state in 2010, snorkeling only, but we had a wonderful time with the richness of the waters and the number of rays we saw, not to mention the dolphins between Loreto and Mulegé.
People come here to board a cruise to Socorro or to dive in the Sea of Cortez.
At Socorro, the best of Canyon (San Benedicto), Fonderadeo (San Benedicto), Roca Partida, Cabo Pearce (Socorro).
At Cabo Pulmo, the best of El Vencedor, El Bajo.
Socorro, in the Revillagigedo archipelago, is a marine reserve listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Located more than 24 hours’ sail from the Mexican coast in the Pacific, it has to be earned ! It’s made up of three islands and a rock in the middle of the archipelago. You can’t set foot on land. The islands, of volcanic origin, are rich in wildlife, and big pelagics pass through year-round, like oceanic manta rays and hammerheads. There’s a whale and whale shark season, but with a lot of boats. As the saying goes : “once you’ve done everything else, go to Socorro !”. Despite visibility we found only average, we got to enjoy mantas, dolphins and schools of sharks on practically every dive. The dives are really beautiful, a bit technical, with negative entries, a lot of swell even at 20 meters, and fairly changeable currents, including vortexes at Roca Partida.
The Cabo Pulmo national park on the Sea of Cortez, also a UNESCO World Heritage site, is reachable via the small village at the end of a dirt track. People come here for snorkeling or diving. The place is quiet in the low season, and the pelicans on the beach put on quite a show. The park is heavily regulated, and dive sites are closed based on a visitor quota, dives only last 45 to 50 minutes max. We got lucky and found a small club that didn’t watch the clock too closely :) and, being low season, the most famous sites were open. Some wonderful encounters, including sand tiger sharks and goliath groupers. Visibility wasn’t great and the water fairly cold, but the dives are easy. The sandy bottoms max out at 25 meters, with beautiful reefs full of life and schools of jacks or impressive groupers. On the last dive, we got to see a small, very elusive school of mobulas.
Our opinion
Difficulty
Visibility
Diversity
Atmosphere
Practical
In April 2024.
Nautilus Explorer : A boat with a capacity of 18 people, comfortable even if the indoor living space is a bit small. The cabins are pleasant, with good beds. It’s an absolute food fest, two breakfasts, snacks, … Welcomed with champagne, a taco night, a wine and cheese night. In short, you won’t go hungry. A lot of the crew dive too, and the mood is great. The dive masters adapt to the group’s level and really care about making the most of the experience for us. 4 nitrox dives a day, from rigid inflatables.
Blue Passion Baja : Manuela is Italian and based in Cabo Pulmo, she’s super chill both underwater and above. The captains are experienced and spot the big schools of jacks to let us enjoy them. Manuela didn’t watch the clock and showed us the best of diving at Cabo. 2 dives possible, morning or afternoon.
In April 2024.
Casa Bella Hotel : A really beautiful little hotel, well located near lots of restaurants, with the option to take the room from 10am and return it around 4pm if there’s no one else booked. On the downside, there’s noise all night from the bars and clubs all around.
La Perla de Cabo Pulmo : A little nest tucked away in a quiet, green setting. The place is really well equipped, and we fell asleep to birdsong and the sound of the waves.
Pescadero Palace : Offers studios facing the sea at the end of a dirt track, gorgeous, with a jacuzzi, really pleasant after surf sessions, …
Hotel Aeropuerto : 5 min from the airport (100 pesos by taxi). The rooms are spacious and quiet, the restaurant is decent. Perfect for a transit stop after a long day of travel. Check-in and service are rather slow, patience is required.
In April 2024.
To avoid : Cabo San Lucas. The spring break vibe is awful.
In the Sierra de la Laguna national park, Cañón de la Zorra and Cañón de la Zitta, respectively a waterfall and an oasis with natural hot springs. A hike is possible in the Zorra canyon for a small fee in pesos. The second one gets far fewer tour operators, and the natural pools are lovely.
There are trails to hike from Cabo Pulmo, including the bench trail, which offers great views, hares and birds.
Go surfing at Los Cerritos beach.
In December 2010.
Swim with the sea lions at Espíritu Santo, even if it’s very touristy, it’s still a wonderful experience, then drive up the coast from La Paz to Mulegé via Loreto, with lovely villages, beautiful 16th-century churches, and breathtaking bays. A really beautiful road trip between the sea and the desert, don’t miss the rock carvings in the Sierra de Guadalupe.