About the country
The Indonesian archipelago is the largest in the world and part of the great Coral Triangle spanning the Indian and Pacific Oceans, along with the Philippines and Malaysia in particular. The marine life is incredibly rich.
Komodo and Raja Ampat are among the most famous archipelagos in the world, and their reputation is well deserved.
Around Bali and Sorong, the waters are polluted with plastic and all kinds of waste, including around the villages of Papua.
The best of Komodo : Crystal bay, Shotgun, Hot rocks.
The best of Raja Ampat : Boo West, Nudy Rock (Misool), 4 Kings (Misool), Melissa’s garden, Sawandarek, Manta Wai, Blue Magic.
Formed of volcanic islands, Komodo’s dive sites are very rich in marine life, with highly varied topography. At Komodo, the current, sometimes strong, brings in abundant life.
We chose a long dive cruise from Bali to Komodo, passing through the islands of Satonda, Moyo and Sangeang. We got to enjoy very different reefs and atmospheres along the way. We loved Sangeang and its underwater geothermal vents, as well as Komodo itself. That said, from the island of Flores, it’s entirely possible to reach the central and northern sites in an hour by boat.
It’s a real shame to see the lack of protection for such an exceptional marine park at Komodo : boats drop anchor, and fishermen take their catch with dynamite or cyanide right at the edge of the marine park.
A long cruise around Misool, Central Raja and the north lets you appreciate the diversity of the coral sites of West Papua.
Raja Ampat, a few hours’ sail from Sorong, offers fish-rich, teeming sites, the guest star remains the wobbegong, or carpet shark. To the south you’ll see mostly soft corals, to the north it’s more about current and hard corals. There’s small stuff and big stuff alike, but visibility isn’t always on your side. We stayed in the Central Raja Ampat area to enjoy the well-known manta dive sites there, and we weren’t disappointed.
From Bali we took a speedboat to Nusa Penida from Sanur. Plan on about 35 minutes. On the beach, all the tourists wait to catch the boat. The dives are enjoyable, and if you’re patient you might see mola molas and mantas.
Our opinion
Difficulty
Visibility
Diversity
Atmosphere
Practical
In January 2025 and September 2017.
The Adelaar dive cruise offers various itineraries, from Bali or Sorong (11 days with 3 nitrox dives a day and a few night dives).
A really beautiful boat and excellent service for up to 8 passengers (2 groups of 4). Depending on the dive guides, you get to appreciate both the small and the big stuff.
In January 2025.
The Papua Paradise dive resort, run by Europeans, the bungalows are a bit dated, but the food, service and dive masters are excellent. A gentle break on Arefi island in Central Raja West. There’s unfortunately a lot of debris brought in by the currents and tides, but you can spot schools of bumphead parrotfish, rays, sharks and plenty of birds without even leaving your lounger. They offer 3 dives a day plus a night dive, and with speedboats it’s possible to reach more distant dive sites. They also offer land excursions for non-divers.
In September 2017.
Nico Dives Cool, a French-speaking club in Bali, very responsive by email. A relaxed, easygoing guide despite the bustle of boats at Nusa Penida.
In January 2025.
Swiss Bellhotel, in Sorong, a comfortable and welcoming hotel.
In September 2017.
Bali Tropical Hotel, in northern Sanur, set in a lush garden.
A lovely place with large rooms and a terrace. They take care of everything on site : massages, excursions, even ordering dinner !
In February 2025.
A quick and easy trek on Waigeo island for the famous Raja Ampat viewpoint, but there’s something more challenging and far more spectacular and secret over at Wayag Bay (North Raja Ampat).
On the small private island of Wai (Central Raja Ampat), between dives you can spot cuscuses and beautiful fruit bats.
In September 2017.
The dragons on Rinca island or Komodo island.
Jump off a rope into the waterfall on the small island of Moyo.
In Bali, admire the countless village temples, or the most prestigious ones like Besakih, Goa Gajah, Tirta Gangga.