The Tuamotu archipelago in Polynesia is famous for its dive sites, …

Their reputation is well earned. Our absolute favorite is Fakarava , a UNESCO biosphere reserve.

The most extraordinary dives happen in the passes. You need to be comfortable with strong currents, but the show is worth it : “walls” of sharks, but not only that, spotted eagle rays, reef manta rays, dolphins, barracudas, dense schools of bigeyes (Ali Baba at North Fakarava), healthy hard corals, so much life, … A real paradise !

Toau, Apataki and Kauehi are only accessible via a dive cruise. Only two boats run one today. Just as impressive as Fakarava’s, the pass topography here is beautiful (arches, crevices, dizzying walls), and it’s a paradise for gray reef sharks, Napoleon wrasse and pools of bigeyes. The hard corals are just as beautiful and well preserved.

Manihi : Several sites around the Terapa pass, including the pink coral wall between 40 and 50 meters, and the beautiful cross-channel dive where marbled groupers, schools of jacks, lagoon whitetips and ribbonfish are all waiting for you.

Rangiroa : The Tiputa pass is mainly known for its fairly relaxed dolphins, you’ll also come across gray, lemon, lagoon whitetip and reef whitetip sharks, and in season, tiger and hammerhead sharks. The Avatoru pass has plenty going for it too, with its magnificent schools of jacks, hammerhead sharks, as well as African pompano.

Tikehau : The pretty Tuheiava pass, more accessible than the others, lets you see barracudas, sennets, green and hawksbill turtles. The pearl farm site is a manta cleaning station at less than 10 meters.

The Society Islands archipelago is made up of high islands (including Tahiti), geologically “young” islands.

We settled on Raiatea and Huahine, two beautiful islands full of history and historical remains.

At Raiatea, there are several fairly fish-rich passes and the beautiful Nordby wreck. You can also dive at Tahaa on the Cérans pass, with some really beautiful topography.

At Huahine, the dives in the Aquarium (at night) or in the Avapeihi pass are rich and varied, and reachable within 5 minutes of the village of Fare on Huahine Nui.

Finally Moorea , to wrap up the Society Islands, a true favorite, wild and quiet while still being close to supplies and restaurants / snack bars open around the clock, … The dives are really interesting, especially for the spotted eagle rays, green and hawksbill turtles and the very curious lemon sharks !! The sites are varied and easy. It would be a real shame to skip Moorea (reachable from Papeete by ferry).

We only did two dives in the Marquesas because of the lack of infrastructure. The sea is rough and the dives are a bit challenging : poor visibility and swell possible down to 15 meters. People mainly come here for the beautiful and fairly numerous reef mantas and the big pelagics, especially silky, silvertip or hammerhead sharks.

There’s only a single dive club across the whole of the Marquesas, on Hiva Oa, and one dive cruise that covers the Marquesas.

That said, it’s possible to rent tanks and dive independently on Nuku Hiva.

The Fenua Enata (“The Land of Men”) is big on hiking and stunning scenery, and it’s packed with archaeological sites.

Choose family-run guesthouses, they’re by far the most authentic.

In July-August-September 2020.

In Papeete (Tahiti) : Faré d’Hôtes Tutehau, with Martine, really pleasant and cool common areas, 15 min from downtown, you can prepare food on site, and don’t miss the garden mangoes at breakfast when in season.

In Papara (Tahiti) : Mano Mano Lodge, with Alexis, well-equipped and clean bungalows overlooking the black sand beach, offering plenty of ocean-based activities. Very welcoming, great atmosphere, and a peaceful spot.

In Fakarava : Kori Kori, in a stunning setting close to snack bars, only 3 bungalows, which makes this guesthouse pleasant and quiet.

In Rangiroa : Vahaui Paradis, small, simply equipped bungalows right on the coral reef, a few minutes from restaurants and grocery stores, charming and very attentive hosts. As of 2020, the hosts have handed off management of the guesthouse. It’s still good, but “it was better before”.

In Raiatea : Ocean Studio, an Airbnb with Marc, a really beautiful spot with a view of the sea and the sunset. Thoughtful host, quiet, beautiful spot. Best to have a car.

In Moorea : Faré by the sea, an Airbnb with Haivaki, an incredible view over Oponohu Bay, the house is very well equipped and comfortable. The host is easy to reach by message and very responsive. Best to have a car.

In Nuku Hiva : Pension Mave Mai simple and a bit rough around the edges, but a beautiful view from the terrace and the rooms. It’s possible to arrange excursions through the guesthouse.

In Hiva Oa : Chalets Hanakee, a superb view over the bays and Hanakee islet, the chalets are beautiful and functional, the host’s children are attentive, helpful and really kind. The chalets are quite far out from the village.

In May 2017.

In Tikehau : Coconut Beach, with Jean-Louis, outside the village. A special mention for the kindness and the home cooking, with a superb view over the lagoon.

In Manihi : Poerani Nui, on a private motu, well maintained, you’ll be spoiled with good home cooking and the company of dogs, cats, …

In Huahine : Lapita Maitai : A magnificent hotel, right at the entrance of the village.

In July-August-September 2020.

In Tahiti : Spend a day on the crossing road with a 4x4 and a guide. Eric tells stories and shares Polynesia the way he lives it. The scenery is breathtaking.

Try your hand at surfing or paddleboarding at Papara or Papenoo, and go to the Tahiti Iti viewpoint.

In Raiatea : The road around the island is magnificent. Don’t miss the great Taputapuatea marae, the street art in the town of Uturoa, the 3 waterfalls walk, …

In Moorea : The island loop road, the viewpoint and the walks : the Ancestors’ Path around the maraes in the forest, and the Three Coconut Trees pass. From July to October, swim with the whales with Moorea Deep Blue, Jérôme and his amazing guide making sure we had the best possible time near the whales.

In North Fakarava : Bike out to the north pass, and enjoy the beautiful beach at PK9.

In Nuku Hiva : There are lots of hikes you can easily do without a guide, it’s best to rent a 4x4 to get around and tour the island. The drive down from the airport to the village of Taiohae is superb, and don’t miss the beautiful Anaho Bay, an easy hike.

In Hiva Oa : There are some great excursions to do, like the giant Tiki, the smiling Tiki, and stunning views of northern and eastern Hiva Oa.

In May 2017.

In the Tuamotus, between dives, you’ll go around the islands or motus pretty quickly, so make the most of walks on the beaches, teasing blacktip reef sharks and admiring the sunsets.

In Tikehau, go see Hina’s bell, Te Oe A Hina.

In Rangiroa, sip a cocktail in a nice atmosphere at the Te Mao bar, the owner will drive you back to your guesthouse !

In South Fakarava, visit the village of Tetamanu.

In Huahine, set aside at least a day to tour the island :

Visit the many maraes.

Drive around the island as far as Huahine Iti.