About the country
Mediterranean sites are very popular in summer. To have some peace and quiet underwater, you need to gamble on the weather and come out of season. That said, the water stays cold, and a dry or semi-dry suit is a must.
The scenery is magnificent, and underwater we were pleasantly surprised by the richness and diversity of the marine flora (beautiful gorgonians, red coral). The waters inside the reserves are teeming with fish, with a bit of luck you’ll come across mola molas, groupers and barracudas.
The weather changes fast : rain brings a lot of particles around Cerbère, while wind noticeably cools the otherwise clear water around Marseille, a drysuit can be worth considering even in the middle of July.
Reachable by train or plane, you’ll need a car to get around. Remember to book dive clubs in advance, as most only take reservations.
The best of : Canadelles (Cerbère Banyuls) ; Pointe Caramassaigne (Riou) ; Moyade (Riou).
The Cerbère Banyuls reserve in the Pyrénées-Orientales is stunning. Right on the Spanish border, you feel like you’re at the end of the world, between the mountains and the sea. You can dive in Spain or in France depending on the weather.
The water is only clear one month a year, according to locals ! There’s a lot of particulate matter, and marine life stays between 0 and 20 meters. The sites are fairly close to one another. The topography is beautiful, with small cavities, long canyons, arches. Some sites aren’t easy to find if you don’t know the area well, because of the low visibility.
The Riou archipelago , in the Calanques national park, is simply stunning. You reach the marine reserve via the channel by Île Maïre and Cap Croisette, the islands are sanctuaries for birds, and for divers.
Walls of purple, blue, red or yellow gorgonians. Life teems around the submerged rocky pinnacles, caves and tunnels. It’s a party for groupers and octopus, but barracudas and scorpionfish aren’t left out either. The water there is very clear.
Unfortunately, since the archipelago is just 20 minutes by boat from the large harbor of Pointe Rouge, there are a lot of dive boats, especially on weekends.
The island of Porquerolles in the Var is a 20-minute boat ride from the coast. Together with Giens and Port-Cros, there are at least 40 sites to discover. On Porquerolles, we didn’t dive much, but we came across lots of groupers, moray eels and barracudas. The topography is beautiful, and it made us want to go back.
Diving at Cap d’Antibes, in the Alpes-Maritimes, remains an enjoyable experience. The water is clear and warm in summer. We dived at the Cap, at La Fourmigue (lighthouse), and came across small barracudas, moray eels and octopus.
Our opinion
Difficulty
Visibility
Diversity
Atmosphere
Practical
In July, August 2023.
Cap Antibes :
Easy dive at the harbor has a large aluminum boat. The atmosphere is good, and it’s reasonably well organized. In summer, it gets really crowded, the club fills the boat to capacity, which isn’t very pleasant either on the boat or in the water. The club runs one outing per half-day. Rates are quite expensive, though the club does offer a nice parking discount if you remember to ask for it.
La Londe :
Aqualonde at the harbor has a large, comfortable boat and a rigid inflatable. Despite the crowds, the atmosphere is friendly and the guides are all smiles. The gear is new, and the 5 mm wetsuits were appreciated. Rates are higher than the French average, we were diving independently but still had a guide.
In May-June 2021.
Cerbère :
Plongée Cap Cerbère is a really friendly little club just minutes from the sites, equipped with a large boat with a lift (properly luxurious).
Booking is easy by email. The club encourages independent diving. Guided dives are automatically capped at Level 1. Still, we managed to do a 40-meter dive. All the instructors, including the owner, are passionate and great teachers. The outdoor space and parking are a nice bonus.
Riou Islands :
L’atelier de la mer is one of the biggest clubs at Pointe Rouge, with three large zodiacs, each with a capacity of 20 divers.
Plenty of room to set up your gear and get equipped, with food available on site by reservation. There are à la carte options for independent or guided dives. If you’re after a small club feel, look elsewhere, the staff aren’t especially warm and it runs like a factory. The owner is around though, and stays friendly with all customers. This club has the advantage of being just 20 minutes by boat from the Riou and Frioul island sites.
We always rented accommodation close to the dive clubs.
In July 2023.
In Soliès-Pont, we stayed with Françoise and George : a large ground-floor place with a garden, very well equipped and quiet. It’s an ideal spot to explore the region coming from Toulon.
In May-June 2021.
In Cerbère, we stayed with Philip : a small, functional house, quiet, with a sea view and a small garden, 5 minutes from the village.
In Marseille, our favorite was “le petit Borely”, hosted by Sylvie and Philippe in the 8th arrondissement, with a beautiful terrace.
In July 2023.
The historic center of Hyères, the Giens peninsula and the pretty beaches, especially the one at Lavandou.
In May-June 2021.
Around Cerbère, the pretty village of Collioure, the capes and coves of the Cerbère-Banyuls reserve.
The small sculpture museum of the Master of Cabestany near Perpignan, and of course Perpignan with the beautiful Palace of the Kings of Majorca.
Marseille and the Calanques national park, with the calanques of Les Goudes and Cassis, and its little harbor at Miou, …